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Batavia's ethnic roots reflected in bakeries that used to dot the city

By Anne Marie Starowitz

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Over the years bakeries found homes on the corners of many Batavia streets, especially Ellicott Street.  There was nothing like the aroma of freshly baked bread wafting through the store.  It was a smell of comfort.

One of the earliest bakers was Louis Uebele, who came from Germany and settled in Batavia in 1900.  He was responsible for baking all of the bread that was served at the newly built New York State School for the Blind.  His building was on the corner of Main and Center Street.  That location had several owners over the years and was known at various times as Henning’s, Williams’ Bakery, and Andrews’ Bakery.  There were other bakers who baked out of their homes for their neighbors.

In 1905 the Hiscutt Brothers, Arthur and Robert, started a small business at 240 Ellicott St.  The business expanded and the brothers bought a lot on Center Street south of the Masonic Temple.  In 1921 the Hiscutts bought the lot next door to be used as a garage and shipping room.  They delivered baked goods via horse and wagon even though automobiles were a new commodity.  The Hiscutt Brothers ran a very successful business for more than 25 years.  By 1932 the completion of chain store bakeries was cutting into their profits.  In 1937 the Genesee Trust Company took ownership of the business.  It was then sold to R. Walter Riehlman of Tully, NY.  He changed the name to The Table Top Bakery. 

Table Top Bakery renovated the former Hiscutts’ building.  Two delivery routes were established and the cream and orange International trucks could be seen on the roads.  Eventually, Table Top Bakery was servicing nearly all of Genesee County.  Two 300-loaf ovens were in use 24 hours a day supplying bread and other products to meet the needs of their customers.  A retail shop was maintained at the plant for the convenience of local shoppers who opted out of the delivery service.

Quintalino and Lucia (Zinni) Prospero had a bakery on Ellicott Street.   Mr. Prospero was a skilled baker who emigrated from Abruzzo, Italy, and ran the Prospero Bakery at 421 Ellicott Street in the early 20th century.  Mr. Prospero trained Mr. Colangelo who later opened a bakery on Ellicott and Mr. Saracini who opened a bakery on Liberty.  Unfortunately, there was a fire at Prospero's bakery in the mid-1930s that resulted in the closing of the bakery.  Prospero's Bakery was the original Italian bakery in Batavia. It was remembered as the bakery that sold day-old bread for one cent to the poorer families.  

Colangelo’s Bakery was located on Ellicott Street and was commonly known as the Ellicott Bakery.  It was originally called Alexander Colangelo’s Bakery.  In the ‘30s there was a second Colangelo’s run by Nicholas Colangelo on 119 Liberty Street.  Nicholas Colangelo’s bakery closed in 1937 and Alexander Colangelo’s bakery was open until 1973.

Casmir Stomper came to Batavia from Poland in 1925.  He became familiar with the locals when, with a basket of bread over his arm, he went door to door making deliveries in the neighborhood. In 1930 he opened a Polish bakery at 208 Swan Street.  He later moved his bakery to 400 Ellicott. The bakery had a deep stone oven; an oil burner heated the bricks.  This way of baking was considered outdated and so were the wooden boxes that were used for the rye bread to rise.   Stomper’s customers did not notice the outdated equipment; they just wanted their famous rye bread. His son Jack ran a bakery on Oak Street. After his father died he moved to the Ellicott Street Bakery and continued the tradition of baking rye bread using the old family recipe. Stomper’s was known for the hearth-baked bread and many Polish delicacies such asrugalske, plechunki, placki, bobka, and piatzek.  All of his goods were made from scratch.  He learned his baking skills from an Army baking school during WWI and he also attended a national baking school in Chicago. Jack’s wife Veronica died in 1986.  He lost interest in the bakery and his customers were left without their famous rye bread and cakes.

Grundler’s bakery was a popular bakery run by Louis Grundler and later his two sons, Louis and Harold.  The shop opened in 1934 but Louis Grundler had been selling baked goods in Batavia long before that.  He came to Batavia from Bavaria when he was about 16 years old to work at Schwab’s Bakery in Rochester.  In the late ‘20s, he ran a bakery on Jefferson Avenue in Batavia called Scott’s.  He was looking for a business to buy and eventually found one in Oakfield.  About 1933 Mr. Grundler came back to Batavia and sold baked goods from a shop at 12 Main Street.  He continued to bake in Oakfield and brought his baked goods to Batavia by trucks.  A year later he leased 52 Main Street and moved his business and all of his equipment to Batavia, the mixing and kneading machine, bread slicer, the bake ovens, and the rest is history.  While on shopping trips to Batavia, many county residents would stop at the bakery to pick up a loaf of salt-rising bread, its buttery dinner rolls, or one of its specialty pastries.  Grundler’s Bakery served Batavia for more than 30 years.

Saraceni bakery was located on 245 Liberty Street and was built by Arthur Saraceni. Mr. Saraceni baked in his home at 119 Liberty Street from the early ‘30s.  The new shop was a little cement block building, which he called The Bake Shop.  He sold bread and buns until 1956 when he sold out to Frank Pellegrino.

Francesco Pellegrino, who was the patriarch of the Pellegrino Family, bought Pellegrino Bakery located on 245 Liberty Street from Arthur Saraceni in 1955.  Graziano Pellegrino had a bakery business in Reggio Calabria, Italy.  In 1955 he came to America.  His father Francesco put him in the bakery business with his brothers Rocco, Frank, Joseph, and Carmen.  They ran the bakery until 1974 when Graziano suddenly passed on. Graziano’s sons Frank, Rocco, and Vincent, along with Mama Angelina, took over the business and ran it in the proud Pellegrino tradition. Eventually, by 1980 Frank was left to run the business.  He moved the business to Center Street then in 1986 to Liberty Street across from the Pok- A- Dot.  He built a beautiful new building and the business tripled.  In 1991 Pellegrino Bakery closed.  In 1999 Pellegrino brothers Frank and Vincent were back with a new building, baking their famous Italian bread, rolls, doughnuts, pizza, pastries, and cookies.  In 2001 the business closed.   The building and property were sold and the building became the home of Ficcarella Pizza.

Once again a delicious part of our history is gone, but what is left are the scrumptious memories of warm bread, rolls, doughnuts, pastries, and many other delicacies that are perhaps not good for a person to consume in large quantities!  Long-time Batavia residents can almost close their eyes and still remember the aromas as you opened the door into these treasures of Batavia’s past.

Author's Note: Not all bakeries are listed in this article but would love to hear from those that were missed.

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'Sweet Pea's' cupcake bakery opens in Batavia, grand opening set for Sept. 29

By Daniel Crofts

Husband-wife team Travis Farewell and Lyndsey Oliver-Farewell, of Medina, opened "Sweet Pea's Cupcakery Café" in Batavia yesterday. It is located at 23 Jackson St. (formerly the Verizon store).

Last night was their "soft" opening. A grand opening with a display and free cupcakes will be held from 5 to 8 p.m. on Saturday, Sept. 29.

Because they specialize in cupcakes, the Farewells like to get creative and, as Lyndsey said, experiment with "many different varieties."

"We're always developing new flavors and decorations," she said.

She and Travis both love to cook. Travis has worked in food services for a number of years, and Lyndsey grew up baking with her mother and grandmother.

"We started (making cupcakes) just for fun," Lyndsey said. "Then we started to make them for friends at work, friends and family members asked us to bake for special occasions, and it became a business."

"We love the Batavia area, and thought it would be the perfect location."

According to Travis, yesterday was "really steady" customer-wise, and "busier than expected for the first day."

Sweat Pea's Cupcakery Café will do special orders for weddings, graduations, office parties, showers, and other special occasions by request.

Cupcakes cost $2.75. They also sell:

Cookies for $1;

Brownies for $2;

Muffins (including blueberry and peach cobbler) for $1.75.

And they sell bottled beverages, tea and coffee. Coffee and tea are priced at $1 for a regular and $1.50 for a large. A flavor shot can be added for an extra 25 cents.

Lastly, they sell "frosting shots" -- which are exactly what they sound like -- frosting in shot glasses.

Bakery hours are 7 a.m. until 7 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 7 a.m. until 10 p.m. Friday, and noon until 10 p.m. Saturday.

Regular store hours will be held on the day of the grand opening.

For more information, call 344-5627 or email contact@sweetpeascupcakery.com.

Photos: Genesee County's six, count 'em, six bakeries

By Howard B. Owens

A little less than a year ago, there was only one independent bakery in Genesee County. As of yesterday, there are six.

The latest to open is Sweet Ecstasy, next to the Stafford Trading Post, in Stafford. Above are Tonisha Price, Carla Price, Ginny Robins and Debra Ingham. In the store, Sweet Ecstasy offers cookies and pastries and takes special orders for cakes and other baked dessert items.

Sweet Ecstasy took over the former location of Heavenly Sweets • Deli, which has moved to the corner of routes 63 and 19 in Pavilion. Heavenly Sweets offers pastries, bread and cakes, as well as a fully stocked deli counter. Pictured are owner Bonnie Totten, lower center, Peggy Ellis, left, Caitlyn Meeder and Sherif Woodworth.

The first of Genesee County's current six bakeries is Greg'ry's in Bergen. Greg'ry's was opened 17 years ago by Diane Cunningham. It was started nearly 20 years ago by Gregory Stefl, who sold it to Diane Cunningham. She sold it two years ago and then reacquired the bakery just two weeks ago.

Her new partner, Maura Schaffer (unfortunately, not in today when I dropped by unannounced) has created a line of all-natural pet treats. The bakery still carries a full line of breads, pies, cakes and pastries.

The trend of new bakeries started with Mary Margret Ripley opening up Scratch Bakery in Le Roy (on Main Street, sharing space with Java's). Scratch does most of its business special order, though there's usually cookies and scones (one Ripley's specialities) available in the store. Ripley also has a number of wholesale customers and sells items at local festivals. Customers can order a full line of cakes, cup cakes, pastries, cookies and bread. Ripley also offers home delivery.

Michelle's Bakery and Cafe opened in February on West Saile Drive, Batavia. Michelle said the bakery specializes in old-fashioned pastries, "like grandma used to make." It's a full-service bakery and owner Michelle Farina, left, said the shop can make a decorated sheet cake for any special occasion. The cafe is open for breakfast and lunch and offers sandwiches, wraps, salads and soups. Farina also offers catering. Pictured with Michelle are Samantha McDonald, Cassandra Hirsch and Liz Fenton.

The second newest bakery is Buttercrumbs Bakery in Corfu. Owner Darlene Miller, right, said she researched more than 100 bakeries, including some as far away as Florida, before coming up with a business plan. The shop, right in the Village of Corfu, has a seating area and offers pastries, pies and bread as well as cakes on special order. Miller said the closing of the village grocery store created a real opportunity for her and local residents have responded enthusiastically to the new business. "Corfu has never had anything like this before," said Miller, a longtime resident. Pictured with Miller is Julie Patterson.

It's perhaps just coincidence that I finally got around to putting this post together (I started planning on it back when there were only four bakeries) on the same day my dad is arriving from California for a weekend visit. I grew up in the bakery business and have always loved what a good, independent bakery can produce.

The baked goods at the chains can never match what a good independent bakery makes. Genesee County is now blessed with six quality local bakeries. As consumers, we need to be sure to support them. Entrepreneurs like these owners are what make a community strong and prosperous.

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