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Kutter's Cheese Factory Store: 2009 Agricultural Business of the Year

By Billie Owens

A welcome sight on a long stretch of Route 5, at 857 Main Road in Corfu, is Kutter's Cheese Factory Store. Epicures, bus loads of tourists, wine lovers, cheese tasters and other customers make regular stops at the retail shop because they like what it offers.

The variety is impressive. Blocks of Swiss cheese, wheels of jack cheese, spreads, curds, cheesecakes, specialty cheeses like Stilton with lemon or double-cream Spanish cheddar, crackers, cranberry horseradish sauce, New York maple syrup, eggs, fresh local apples, hot mustard, bologna and more.

The success of Kutter's Cheese Factory Store and its positive impact on local agriculture are why it is being honored Saturday by the Genesee County Chamber of Commerce as Agricultural Business of the Year for 2009.

It is also a "satellite winery" of Hunt Country Wines and carries its New York wines exclusively. Wine sales at stores offering local farm and dairy products are allowed under New York Department of Agriculture and Markets law. In fact, at one time, dairymen grew grapes for vintners to augment their income.

Even so, the retail pairing isn't commonplace, according to 77-year-old Tony Kutter, son of the late founder, Leo.

"I've always been adament about promoting wine and cheese," Kutter said. "We also supply a lot of wineries with cheese for wine tasting."

In fact, the business ships worldwide, from California to Taiwan.

The small Corfu store property is leased from the adjacent Yancey's Fancy cheese producers as well as the equipment to make its own cheese. Kutter's produces fine cheddars and other cheese varieties, plus it sells products made by others, including some imports, like Port Salut from France.

Kutter lives just two houses away from the store, but is retired from the business. So is his 80-year-old brother, Richard, who lives in the area but spends winters in Florida.

Yet Tony remains active in the industry. He's on the board of directors of the New York State Cheesemaker Association and usually attends the Cheesemakers Convention. He's proud to note that the association pays half the salary of a professor at Cornell University to fund ag research.

Kutter says he's happy to work with the chamber of commerce to promote agritourism and he's honored to receive the chamber award. It recognizes a business that is now 63 years old.

In a way, it started in Bavaria, before the Great War. Leo (1893-1962) was born there and as a young man, his chosen vocation was cheese making. He was especially good at crafting the pungent Limburger variety.

Then World War I came and he served Germany. Two days prior to his being discharged, he was captured by the French and became a prisoner of war. But once the "War to End All Wars" was over, he returned to his roots. As the German economy faltered, inflation ran amouk and panic began setting in. He left for Buffalo, USA, thanks to the sponsorship of his sister. That was 1923-24.

Buffalo before the Great Depression was a boomtown, boasting large steel plants, flour mills and plenty of railroads lines to further commerce. He went to Wyoming County to find work in the dairy industry. Although the Great Depression created a shortage of milk, according to Tony, WWII created a shortage of sons to milk the cows.

Some historians claim there were more than 20 cheese factories in Western New York at the time. Leo told dairymen to bring him their milk, or let him milk their cows and otherwise make himself useful. What he really wanted, was to start his own cheese-making business.

He did so in Cowlesville in 1947, purposely on a main route with great access and visability. Tony and Richard learned young how to scrub vats and clean up equipment and the grounds after school.

After Leo's death, then-29-year-old Tony, a Korean War veteran, and his brother took over the business. It was hard, familiar work.

Early last year, they approached Brian Bailey and his wife, Heather, about buying the retail store. Brian had been a business partner of the Kutter brothers since 1995.

In November, they sealed the deal and along with Christine Adamczak, formed BHC Cheese, Inc. The trio constitutes the board of directors, with Heather as president, Brian as vice president of operations, and Adamczak as vice president of sales and marketing.

"It's an honor to be recognized, to be part of a business that is being carried on successfully after 63 years," Heather Bailey said.

Tony Kutter takes pride in creating a mighty "stinky" Limburger, the first cheese he learned to make, and claims more and more people are rediscovering it. Now with Kutter's Cheese Factory Store in award-winning hands, he's probably planning his 32nd trip to Russia.

There's a strong possiblity he'll be tempted to promote Limburger and vodka. The bold pairing does seems fitting. "Na zda-ro-vye!"

Bea McManis

Congratulations, Kutter's. The 400 Towers' Snack Shop starting carrying Kutter's Cheese and Yancy's Fancy cheese in Feb. The response was overwhelming. It is wonderful to be associated with Kutter's to make a healthy, tasty treat available to our residents.

Mar 1, 2010, 11:20am Permalink
Billie Owens

Do share Beth! I love macaroni and cheese. I like the boxed stuff in the organic food aisle from Annie's organic. But I really love the Southern-style recipe my mother used to make, with sharp cheese.

You cook the macaroni, al dente, then a mixture including grated sharp cheese, milk and eggs is poured over just to the top. This casserole is baked for like an hour at 350 and it's very tasty.

Mar 1, 2010, 1:47pm Permalink
Beth Kinsley

Pretty much the same as that Billie. The eggs are a key ingredient but I also put in some ground mustard which gives it a little tang. And bread crumbs mixed with grated cheese for the top.

Mar 1, 2010, 3:23pm Permalink
George Richardson

Did Corfu annex this area? When I went to Pembroke High everyone considered Kutter's and Brickhouse Corners to be in the town of Pembroke. If not why didn't they just call it Corfu Central High School? I've scratched my head over references to Corfu on Route 5 before and thought it was just a mistake. Weird. But yeah, Kutter's Cheese Kurds were fantastic and I love Macaroni and Cheese too. I make it excellently but I don't know the recipe because my wife just tells me what to do, from the livingroom, and I do it. It comes out fantastic. I'll have to ask her if she knows the recipe, I'll bet she does.

Mar 1, 2010, 8:41pm Permalink
Lori Ann Santini

Can we have a Mac and Cheese contest using only cheeses purchased at Kutters? I am getting hungry just thinking about Mac and cheese so the sooner the better. I used to love being able to buy the ends of the cheeses every couple of weeks. It didnt matter what the type was either. I would grate them all together and use the mixture. There was never a bad batch. Sometimes it had a little more cheddar while other times it had more creamy Fontina. In either case, there were never leftovers.

I stopped in twice in the last several days. The first time I went in to purchase with the intent of only buying the sample bags. I bought 6 different types of cheese or mix before I called it a day. I also bought the really large cheese box on the right side of the cooler in the picture. It will work really well for a project I have planned for my oldest daughter.

Today I stopped and bought some more cheese. (Squeak Squeak) The Wasabi Cheese is absolutely one of the best. It has the perfect amount of heat. Melt in a Baked Potato or a Beef Sandwich and you will never go back to plain jane again.

I applaud Kutters and all the other winners. You are what makes this a grate oops :) great county to live in.

Mar 1, 2010, 8:45pm Permalink
Dave Olsen

George; a large part of the Town of Pembroke has a Corfu address Zip code 14036 for mail purposes, that's why you'll see some place in Pembroke or Indian Falls referred to as Corfu. Since you and I are fellow Pembroke Dragons, you'll appreciate this: How do you get a Pembroke Grad out of your house? Answer: Pay for the Pizza.

Mar 1, 2010, 9:49pm Permalink
George Richardson

Thanks Dave. Yeah we were Dragons. Dragon on cigarettes, dragon our asses, dragon in cars, yet I never felt like it was a drag, even when it was. That's what the joy of youth is all about. Can you dig it man? I'll bet you can.

Mar 2, 2010, 12:42am Permalink
Billie Owens

Exactly, Beth. I forgot to add the dry mustard, but a teaspoon or so does provide that zip. Bottled mustard is not a substitute, as cooks know, because it has vinegar and salt, too. The bread crumbs and grated cheese on top is right too, but I would add maybe a tablespoon or half of (unsalted) butter to that.

I think the recipe I remember seeing layered the noodles and the mixture, rather than pour it all over the top as I said.

Either way, it's very tasty!

Mar 2, 2010, 7:23pm Permalink
Beth Kinsley

Yes to the butter too Billy. I put little pats of butter on the top of the bread crumbs. I think our recipes are pretty much the same. I like to use shells because they hold all of the cheesy mixture really well. As an aside, dry mustard is excellent for devilled eggs and egg salad also - along with bottled mustard. I think I'm going to have to make some mac and cheese this weekend.

Mar 3, 2010, 8:56am Permalink

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